Fine-Tuning Your Pack: Mountaineering Edition

We all want to buy our equipment once and have it work for all—or at least most—cases. But while we all desire our equipment to be versatile, there is something to be said for specialization. Not all things in your pack need be specialized, but the more you have that is, the more the chances of success—and even of survival.

Last month, I went to climb a couple of 12,000-foot peaks. A successful mountaineer’s motto is: “Go light, go fast.” Speed is crucial because thunderstorms build during the late morning and unleash electrical fury in the mid-afternoon on bare, exposed mountaintops above the treeline where there is no shelter. One of my climbing buddies has actually been struck by lightening. One must also account for the possibility of being stuck on the mountain overnight due to injury or getting lost. Without further ado, here is a conservative mountaineer’s pack:

Top “Twenty” for the Mountaineer

1) The pack itself—keep it light!
2) Water—since the mountains tend to be cooler, less water is needed, especially if there are streams. About two liters of water is sufficient unless you are hiking the Big Bend.
3) Water Purifier: I use a Katadyn water filter as they are reliable
4) Compass
5) Headlamp (with extra batteries if needed). Think light. I’m about to buy myself a 3 ounce Black Diamond Spot 325 over some of the other 4 ounce models to shave down that one ounce. My current monstrosity is a 13.5 ounce Cobit—far too heavy. Although it doubles the weight, bring extra batteries (bearing in mind that 3 AAA batteries weigh just under 3 oz).
6) Knife. Heavier hunting knives are not needed unless hunting. Make it a pocketknife.
7) Lighter or matches
8) Goretex rain jacket with hood and Goretex pants for the inevitable rain or hailstorm
9) Gloves and hat. If using an ice ax, make sure that the gloves provide sufficient protection over the knuckles.
10) Map
11) PLB or satellite phone
12) Emergency bivy sack (5 oz or less). It won’t be warm enough to sleep in it, but it will be warm enough that you won’t freeze to death if caught on the mountain overnight.
13) 40 gallon plastic garbage bag in which to put your pack during a heavy downpour
14) Down jacket (again, think light!). In order to keep it lightweight yet warm, use 800 or 900 down. This is more expensive, but the weight savings will be worth it. Down loses its warmth when wet although Primaloft has come up with a new synthetic down that does not. Regardless, this needs to be paired with the Goretex rain jacket above when it is precipitating.
15) First aid kit
16) Sunglasses
17) Change of clothes
18) Salt for electrolytes
19) Ice ax
20) Crampons—prefer steel because while heavier than aluminum or titanium, they are better for dirty climbing (i.e., on mixed rock/dirt/snow) that is more common here in the Southwest.

The last two are usually not necessary in summer. Some people take a look at this list and don’t take all—or even most of these. With lighter packs, they go even faster and further. But with these light packs come increased risk of death should something go wrong.

A photo of my pack. It is a pack with technology out of the 2000s, and I have since upgraded a number of things, starting with the pack itself, which is now 1.7 lbs rather than the 3 pound pack pictured. But you have to start somewhere!

A photo of my pack. It is a pack with technology out of the 2000s, and I have since upgraded a number of things, starting with the pack itself, which is now 1.7 lbs rather than the 3 pound pack pictured. But you have to start somewhere!

Deception Peak, New Mexico

Deception Peak, New Mexico